San Francisco’s Ocean Beach History: The 1930s to 1950s

People on Ocean Beach in front of Playland, 1930s. Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp70.0936.

Earlier in January, I wrote a post on the early history of San Francisco’s Ocean Beach. I found so many amazing photos and so much interesting history that my post ran too long, so I ended it with the early 1930s. I realized that to share more of the pictures and info I discovered, I would need to do several posts. So, today, we look at the 1930s to the 1950s.

Playland and Nearby Attractions
In the 1930s, people continued to flock to the beach and Playland-at-the-Beach from around San Francisco, other parts of the Bay Area, and beyond, despite the hard times of the Great Depression. In fact, Playland continued to expand in the ’20s and ’30s.

Playland Midway in the 1930s. Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp4.0947.
Cars on the Great Highway by Playland in the late 1930s.
Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp32.0165.
Looking south at Playland and the streetcar terminal, 1937. Golden Gate Park and the Dutch windmill are in the background at left. Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp4.0942.
Women (models?) on Ocean Beach in the late 1930s,
with the Cliff House in the background. Photo from SF Public Library.
Women frolicking on the beach, 1930s. Photo from SF Public Library.
Family picnic on Ocean Beach, 1930s.
Photo from SF Public Library.

George and Leo Whitney, the owners of Playland, had opened Topsy’s Roost in the former Ocean Beach Pavilion building in 1929. This restaurant and nightclub boasted live orchestras and even had slides for patrons to ride down onto the dance floor from the balcony! Unfortunately (but not surprisingly, given the era), Topsy’s decor and advertising included racist stereotypes of Black people. I’ll spare you by not including any photos here. The Whitneys also took over the Cliff House from the Sutro family in 1936.

View of Ocean Beach and Playland from Sutro Heights, 1930s.

In the 1930s, Sutro Baths struggled due to the Depression and changes in public health codes. As the baths became less popular, part of the complex was converted into a skating rink. Swimming continued, but the pools were no longer the gigantic attraction they had been in the late 1800s and early 1900s, when thousands would swim on many days.

Sutro skating rink, 1940s. Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp37.02156wnp37.02156.
Sutro Baths streetcar depot and exterior of Sutro Baths, 1940s.
Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp14.1472.
Young woman on the beach by Playland, 1940s. Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp14.4785.

Early Surfing
The late ’30s and ’40s saw some brave people getting into surfing at Ocean Beach. The northern end of the beach near Playland was dubbed “Kelly’s Cove” and was a popular surf spot. According to an article in Surfline, the roots of surfing at Ocean Beach were planted when a handful of lifeguards from Fleishhacker Swimming Pool at Sloat Boulevard and the Great Highway were inspired by their Hawaiian colleagues, Cliff Kamaka and Eddie Eukini, to start bodysurfing and mat surfing. Apparently, surfboards were not used as much at first because most couldn’t withstand Ocean Beach’s harsh shore break and would end up damaged.

Fleishhacker Pool lifeguards, including early surfers Charlie Grimm (far left), Cliff Kamaka (center), and Eddie Eukini (far right). Photo by Anita Kamaka.
Surfers pose at Fort Kelly’s Cove, 1943. Photo from Western Neighborhoods Project.

The ’40s and ’50s
Ocean Beach and Playland continued to be popular in the World War II era and the early 1950s. Playland offered service people and their friends a cheap and relatively respectable place to have a good time and was open from noon to midnight.

An Ocean Beach picnic in the 1940s. Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp26.1274.
View from the Cliff House to Playland, 1940s. Golden Gate Park is in the background.
Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp25.3024.
Kids on Ocean Beach by Playland, 1940s. Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp27.2047.
Three images from the 1940s. Left, women lounging on Ocean Beach; photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp26.1267. Center, Bathing Beauties at Playland; photo from SF Public Library.
Right, young women by a beach bonfire; photo from SF Chronicle.
Sailors and women, 1945. Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp28.1474.
1940s or 1950s, two women on Ocean Beach. Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp27.6461.
Ocean Beach in the 1940s. Left, child with dog and woman; photo from SF Public Library.
Right, teens relaxing on the beach; photo from SF Chronicle.
View south of Ocean Beach from Sutro Heights Park. On the left, the view from the patio, with statues, in the 1940s; photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp4.0144. Right, same view from the road just below the patio, January 2021; photo by Blair J. Davis.

As I said in my prior post, a makeshift development of retired streetcars, Carville, had popped up along Ocean Beach in the late 1800s. Mainly occupied by poor and working-class residents and Bohemians, it was mostly gone by the 1920s; as property values went up, the city forced the residents out and got rid of most of the streetcar structures. By the ’30s and ’40s, just a few remained, and others became unrecognizable as additions built on covered up the inner streetcar structure.

Woman shows interior of streetcar house near Ocean Beach in 1947; the former “Carville” once occupied the Outer Sunset near what became Playland.
Photo from SF Public Library.
1948 aerial view of Ocean Beach and Playland, looking north to Sutro Heights.
Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp4.0940.
Women on the beach in the 1940s, with the Cliff House in the background.
Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp70.1116.

Surfing gained more popularity through the ’40s, ’50s, and ’60s, and actual surfboards became the norm, although many got destroyed in the rough waters. Famous surfboard and wetsuit maker Jack O’Neill opened his first shop in the early to mid-1950’s near the Great Highway.

Surfing photos from the 1950s. Left, three men with a board; photo from Western Neighborhoods Project. Center, surfers and friends at Kelly’s Cove; photo from Carol Schuldt. Right, surfing before wetsuits were popular.

Sutro Baths continued to operate in the ’40s and ’50s but never regained its former acclaim. George Whitney bought Sutro Baths in 1952. A Sky Tram was built in the ’50s that took visitors across the Baths basin from Point Lobos to the outer balcony of the Cliff House. There also was an artificial waterfall.

Left, Sutro Baths exterior and view of ocean, 1952. Center, Sutro Baths entrance. Fun for the Day event at Sutro Baths, 1953. All photos from SF Chronicle.
Left, children swimming at Sutro Baths, 1953; photo from SF Chronicle. Right, Sutro Baths Sky Tram in the mid-50s or early ’60s; photo by Ed Bierman.

Playland’s Big Dipper was torn down over safety code concerns and maintenance issues in 1955. Playland owner George Whitney died in 1958, and the park gradually became faded and dingy as families in the city chose suburban destinations for recreation. People continued to trek out to Ocean Beach and the surfing culture grew, but many of the local attractions were becoming less popular and were not kept up in the same way.

Fun on Ocean Beach in the 1950s. Left, a woman in underwear, stockings, and fancy hat; photo from UC Santa Cruz. Right, women frolicking in the surf; photo from UC Santa Cruz.
Left, Vietnamese Delegation of Peace Conference eating on the Ocean Beach seawall, 1951; photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp12.0122. Center, people enjoying the beach, 1952; photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp27.2061. Right, parents and child on a cold day by the Ocean Beach seawall, 1955; photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp28.3045.
Sutro Heights stone patio in the 1950s (at left) and in 2019 (center) and 2021 (right). Left photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp4.0147. Center and right photos by Blair J. Davis.
Toddler on Ocean Beach, with Cliff House in background; photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp12.0108. Family bonfire on the beach; photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp12.0112. Both photos from 1957.
Fisherman trespassing on Lurline Pier, 1958. Lurline Pier protected the intake pipe for the downtown Lurline Baths, which operated from 1894 to 1936. It was removed in the 1960s. Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp28.3628.
Lincoln Street storm drain on Ocean Beach in 1958 (left) and 2020 (right). It’s now covered with colorful graffiti. Left photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp25.6451. Right photo by Blair J. Davis.
People digging for treasure on Ocean Beach during the Emperor Norton Treasure Hunt. Photo, 1959, by SF Chronicle.
High tide at Ocean Beach, with view of the Lurline Pier, 1959. The seawall used to have bleacher-like steps, which are now buried in sand.
Photo from SF Public Library.

Enjoying this trip into the past? Check out my next Ocean Beach history post, which looks at the 1960s through 1980s.