San Francisco’s Ocean Beach History: The 1960s to 1980s

Surfers and friends on the seawall bleacher steps of Ocean Beach, 1960s.
Photo from Mickey Friedman.

This is probably my last post on the history of Ocean Beach–at least for now. As I said in my most recent post, I found so much information and so many photos, it was hard to narrow it all down. I have a hard time editing myself when it comes to history and pictures! So, this post covers the 1960s to 1980s in San Francisco’s western-most part of town, the Ocean Beach area of the Outer Sunset neighborhood. I imagine only diehard history buffs like me will find this interesting!

The 1960s
Things were changing around Ocean Beach in the ’60s. The amusement park Playland was still operating, but it was going downhill. After owner George Whitney had died in 1958, his son, George Jr., took over. George Jr. struggled to make improvements and keep the park going after some of the property was sold to a developer, who had minimal interest in keeping Playland up-to-date. It didn’t help that a ride collapsed in 1963! Nearby Sutro Baths had also lost much of their appeal.

Collapse of a ride at Playland, 1963. Photo from SF Public Library.
Sutro Baths and Skating Rink exterior, early 1960s.
Photo from SF Public Library.

Surfing and general beach-going were still very popular, however. Famous wetsuit and surfboard maker Jack O’Neill had opened his first shop in the Outer Sunset neighborhood in the ’50s; the shop moved to a site on the Great Highway, just off Ocean Beach, in 1960 and was there until ’66.

Jack O’Neill’s surf shop on Great Highway, early 1960s.
Photo from SF Public Library.
People and surfboards at Kelly’s Cove, the northern part of Ocean Beach near the Cliff House, early 1960s. Photo from Western Neighborhoods Project.
Playland at Great Highway and Fulton Street, early 1960s. Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp25.2944.
View of Ocean Beach from Sutro Heights in 1963 (left) and 2021 (right). In the 1963 photo, the bleacher steps of the Ocean Beach seawall are visible–now buried in sand. Lurline Pier is still there, but not for long. You can see that the Dutch windmill at the north end of Golden Gate Park is in disrepair. 1963 photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp25.2891. In the 2021 photo, you can see how much wider the beach is–currents result in sand migrating from the south end of the beach to the north end. 2021 photo by Blair J. Davis.
Two 1964 photos: Left, a view south showing the seawall and Playland; photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp25.0145. Right, surfers by a bonfire, with the Cliff House in the background;
photo from OpenSFHistory/_wnp25.6441.

In 1964, developers with plans to replace Sutro Baths with high-rise apartments bought the site and began demolition. In 1966, a fire destroyed what was left of the Baths; the city did not pursue the high-rise plans.

Sutro Baths on fire, 1966. Photo from Golden Gate Park Archives.
Sutro Baths after the 1966 fire. Photo from SF Public Library.
Demolition begins on the remnants of Sutro Baths, 1966. Photo from SF Public Library.
Surfers and friends by the Ocean Beach seawall at Kelly’s Cove, 1965. Photo from Western Neighborhoods Project.
Cliff House, late 1960s. Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp25.2360.
Crane lifts a dead whale off Ocean Beach, late 1960s.
Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp4.0904.
Hippie kids on Ocean Beach, 1969. Photo from David Rubenstein Library.

The 1970s
The 1970s were a gritty time in most cities, including San Francisco. San Francisco had gained a reputation in the late ’60s as a haven for hippies and politically radical people. The city was heavily affected by drugs, prostitution, and crime. People who were marginalized elsewhere were attracted to the city by a greater tolerance and acceptance of diverse cultures and lifestyles.

Playland midway, around 1970. Photo from Western Neighborhoods Project.
Ocean Beach bleacher steps in the early 1970s.
A warm 1970s day on the esplanade.
Then and now: Men relaxing on the seawall by Ocean Beach in 1973 (left) and friends by the seawall on a foggy day in 2011 (right). Left photo from Western Neighborhoods Project.
Right photo by Blair J. Davis.

After the remains of Sutro Baths were demolished, the area fell into ruins. The ruins are quite picturesque and have attracted visitors for decades. Some scenes of the 1971 film Harold and Maude were filmed there. The former Sutro Baths site became part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area in 1973.

Then and now: Left, a still from the 1971 film Harold and Maude on stairs amidst the ruins of Sutro Baths. Right, the same stairs in December 2020; photo by Blair J. Davis.
Oil spill cleanup on Ocean Beach, 1971. Photo from SF Public Library.
Woman by Cliff House, with view of Ocean Beach, around 1971. Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp25.1851.

Another local attraction was gone in the early ’70s: Playland was sold to developers in 1971 and torn down in 1972. Condominiums were later built on the former site.

Playland after being shut down, 1971. The back slope of Sutro Heights can be seen in the background. Photo by Denis Englander.
The roller-skating rink at Playland after it was shut down, around 1971. The back slope of Sutro Heights can be seen in the background.
Closed attraction at Playland, 1972.
Man and kids in the rubble of the closed Playland, 1972.
Playland partially demolished, with transit turnaround in foreground, 1972. The Safeway at left is still there today.
1972 beach scenes. Left, volleyball at Kelly’s Cove; photo from Western Neighborhoods Project. Right, people on the Ocean Beach seawall bleacher seats.
Surfer with broken board at Kelly’s Cove, 1970s; photo from Western Neighborhoods Project.
Graffiti on the seawall, with the decrepit Dutch windmill behind, 1974.
Photo from OpenSFHistory/wnp25.4765.
Drumming and wrestling (or dancing?) by the seawall at the beach, 1975.
People looking at tombstones and other rubble on the beach at Rivera Street, late ’70s. After San Francisco’s graveyards were relocated decades ago, old tombstones, bricks, and pieces of stone were used as a seawall at Ocean Beach. While much of this rubble is covered in sand, at times it emerges. Photo from SF Chronicle.
Surfers and friends by the seawall, 1978. Photo from SF Chronicle.
A crowded 1979 day at Kelly’s Cove, with the Cliff House in the background.
Photo from SF Chronicle.

The 1980s
The ’80s were a tough time in San Francisco, between the AIDS epidemic and the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake. Luckily for those living near Ocean Beach, the area did not sustain as much damage in the earthquake as other parts of San Francisco.

Without Playland and Sutro Baths, the area around Ocean Beach became more sleepy. Surfing continued to be popular, but it would never be as popular as it was in Southern California, due to the cold water and inconsistent surf. People continued to come to the beach, but there was less to do nearby.

Condos being constructed on former Playland site, early 1980s. Photo from SF Public Library.
Motorcyclist in the parking lot by Ocean Beach, 1980. Photo from Ralf K.
Football by Ocean Beach, 1981. Photo from SF Chronicle.
Trolley on Judah Street at Sunset, with a view to the ocean, 1980s. Photo by Peter Ehrlich.
Australian tourists Diana Sotts and Ned Trippe, 1982. Photo by Gary Fong, SF Chronicle.
Teen on a scooter by the beach, 1980s.
Wreckage of the King Phillip on Ocean Beach, 1984. Every so often, a shipweck emerges from the sand. Photo from SF Chronicle.
People dancing in costume in a storm drain structure on Ocean Beach, 1980s.
Photo by Frederic Larson, SF Chronicle.

Wrapping Up
Well, I hope you have enjoyed this little series of blog posts about Ocean Beach. As someone living near the beach, I have found it very interesting learning about the area’s history.

3 Comments

  • Beth

    February 16, 2021

    Born & raised in Sunset & spent untold time on Ocean Beach. Would go through tunnel at Taravel St, under Great Highway & walk the beach end to end with my black German Shepherd.
    Lots of pictures posted of the beach lately & I was curious about the Beach Wall bleachers. If they were still buried. No one seemed to know anything of their location under the sand & denied their existence.
    So mahalo so for talking about them & reminding me of other great Beach memories.
    Still live by beach but changed to warmer waters in Hawaii.

  • Ted l

    February 20, 2021

    Thank you for writing this I really enjoyed the post! I moved to SF 10 years ago after college and now live a few blocks from ocean beach, cool to see the local history

  • Russell Courtney

    February 22, 2021

    Very good my first memory of being outside of the house as a baby, I was sitting in the sand by the steps on the sea wall. Lots of young women with radios .1945. swam at sutros dinners at the cliff house was a regular at skate land rode our bikes to the zoo . Thanks for the history.

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